September 30, 2025 - RV-10 Status Update

We just weren't happy how the stock cowl turned out.  The fit wasn't good, it would take a lot more effort to fix it, and we weren't even sure if we could fix it.  We decided to cut our losses and go with a new cowl.  We decided to go with the Sam James RV-10 cowl.    We had to wait a while to get it but not that long.

Here is our first look at the new Sam James cowl.  We had requested that they pre-cut the bottom cowl for us.

   
We also ordered the Sam James RV-10 plenum.
   
And Sam James airbox.
   
And Sam James spinner.
   
Unfortunately the spinner reinforcer donut did not fit the Hartzell three-bladed prop we have.  But the Sam James folks said they would have a new one made for us.  No charge.
   

We had heard Cleaveland Tools has just come out with a new cowling install tool.  Because it is is manufactured using a 3D-printer, they are able to sell it for $150.  Cowling install tools have been around for awhile, but because they are aluminum, they were prohibitively expensive at $400+.  So on our second go around with the cowl, we acquired the Cleaveland Tools cowling install tool, pictured here.

   
The cowl install tool all assembled.
   
We started with the spinner backing plate.  These six steel reinforcing plates came with it.
   
We riveted them on.
   
The other side.
   
We also made these aluminum gap-filler plates.
   
Checking the fit on the spinner backing plate.
   
The backing plate is bolted to the prop which is now on the engine.
   
Seeing how the top cowl looks with the prop on.
   
Now with the 15"  fiberglass spinner.
   
Time to start trimming the cowl front edge.
   
The top cowl now sits down on the engine.
   
Drilling and clecoing the two bottom cowl halves together.
   
The entire cowl together.
   
We took the prop off and replaced it with the cowling install tool, making sure it is set at the 1 1/2" gap that we need.  This is key.
   
The cowling front edge should butt up agains the cowl install tool.
   
Like so.
   
I found it necessary to remove all the camloc anchor flanges from fuselage and old stock cowl.
   
Checking to see how the spinner and air inlets fit.
   
Trimming and fitting the two cowl halves.
   
The Sam James cowl fits much better than the stock one did.  We're toying with the idea of putting a nutplate or two between the air inlet and the center section.
   
The camloc flanges are clecoed back on to the fuselage.
   
 
   
And riveted.
   
 
   
Lots of overhang between the top and bottom halves, on both sides, which is good.
   
While I was working, I heard a strange noise.  I looked down and saw this guy crawl into the hangar.   The hangar isn't a good place for him, so I picked him up and put him outside in the grass.  The next time I looked he was gone.
   
The top cowl is clecoed to the cowl install tool.  This should guarantee we have the proper spacing between cowl leading edge and spinner rear edge.
   
DDD
   
Now hanging the bottom cowl - right side.
   
And left side.
   
The leading edge gap needs addressing.
   
Making preparations to cut the top cowl trailing edge so it butts up against the fuselage.
   
Taking a break from the cowl for the time being, I turned my attention back to the baffles.
   
Cutting a hole in the forward left baffle for the prop governor.
   
Doing some work on the front right baffle area.
   
I finally drilled and bolted the mixture cable anchor bracket to the main bracket.  Very solid.
   
Drilled the throttle cable anchor bracket to the main bracket.  A nice solution.
   
 
   
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