September 30, 2025 - RV-10 Status Update |
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We just weren't happy how the stock cowl turned out. The fit wasn't good, it would take a lot more effort to fix it, and we weren't even sure if we could fix it. We decided to cut our losses and go with a new cowl. We decided to go with the Sam James RV-10 cowl. We had to wait a while to get it but not that long. Here is our first look at the new Sam James cowl. We had requested that they pre-cut the bottom cowl for us. |
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We also ordered the Sam James RV-10 plenum.
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And Sam James airbox.
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And Sam James spinner.
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Unfortunately the spinner reinforcer donut did not fit the Hartzell three-bladed prop we have. But the Sam James folks said they would have a new one made for us. No charge.
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We had heard Cleaveland Tools has just come out with a new cowling install tool. Because it is is manufactured using a 3D-printer, they are able to sell it for $150. Cowling install tools have been around for awhile, but because they are aluminum, they were prohibitively expensive at $400+. So on our second go around with the cowl, we acquired the Cleaveland Tools cowling install tool, pictured here. |
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The cowl install tool all assembled.
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| We started with the spinner backing plate. These six steel reinforcing plates came with it. | ||||||
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We riveted them on.
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| The other side. | ||||||
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| We also made these aluminum gap-filler plates. | ||||||
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| Checking the fit on the spinner backing plate. | ||||||
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| The backing plate is bolted to the prop which is now on the engine. | ||||||
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| Seeing how the top cowl looks with the prop on. | ||||||
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| Now with the 15" fiberglass spinner. | ||||||
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Time to start trimming the cowl front edge.
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The top cowl now sits down on the engine.
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Drilling and clecoing the two bottom cowl halves together.
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| The entire cowl together. | ||||||
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| We took the prop off and replaced it with the cowling install tool, making sure it is set at the 1 1/2" gap that we need. This is key. | ||||||
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| The cowling front edge should butt up agains the cowl install tool. | ||||||
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| Like so. | ||||||
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I found it necessary to remove all the camloc anchor flanges from fuselage and old stock cowl.
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| Checking to see how the spinner and air inlets fit. | ||||||
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Trimming and fitting the two cowl halves.
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| The Sam James cowl fits much better than the stock one did. We're toying with the idea of putting a nutplate or two between the air inlet and the center section. | ||||||
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| The camloc flanges are clecoed back on to the fuselage. | ||||||
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And riveted.
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Lots of overhang between the top and bottom halves, on both sides, which is good.
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| While I was working, I heard a strange noise. I looked down and saw this guy crawl into the hangar. The hangar isn't a good place for him, so I picked him up and put him outside in the grass. The next time I looked he was gone. | ||||||
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| The top cowl is clecoed to the cowl install tool. This should guarantee we have the proper spacing between cowl leading edge and spinner rear edge. | ||||||
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| DDD | ||||||
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Now hanging the bottom cowl - right side.
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| And left side. | ||||||
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The leading edge gap needs addressing.
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| Making preparations to cut the top cowl trailing edge so it butts up against the fuselage. | ||||||
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| Taking a break from the cowl for the time being, I turned my attention back to the baffles. | ||||||
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| Cutting a hole in the forward left baffle for the prop governor. | ||||||
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| Doing some work on the front right baffle area. | ||||||
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I finally drilled and bolted the mixture cable anchor bracket to the main bracket. Very solid.
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| Drilled the throttle cable anchor bracket to the main bracket. A nice solution. | ||||||
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